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of Print Art 1500-1860 By Roger Baynton-Williams |
| There is a mystique surrounding the ways that
old prints were made, although the main printing techniques are quite simple
operations. These notes explain the methods, and, we hope, help you
to determine the way that any early print was made. Such an understanding
will give greater enjoyment of the artistry that was required to make them.
With the notes, a date span is given which are the dates that the method flourished. There are, of course, prints made by these methods after the final date noted, when artists rather than commercial printers extended the technique's lifespan. Also mentioned are the principal uses of each method, and these are the subjects which were most suited to the method. These notes are deliberately brief, outlining the standard printing methods used during the period, providing fundamental information. |
"Printing", for the purposes of this article,
is the transfer of ink from a prepared medium onto paper in a way that
an image can be reproduced repeatedly. These media were usually flat, so
there are three materials used in the making of the plates and blocks that
printed pictures:
wood, hard and fine grainedThere were three ways in which the materials were used. The wood and metals required some sort of engraving, cutting into the material in various ways to produce an image which could then be transferred onto paper with a printing press. These methods are either 'relief' or 'intaglio.' Printing from a stone required a flat surface, without any incisions, and is 'lithography.' |
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Assuming that the paper has not been trimmed, all intaglio prints will have a 'plate mark,' an indentation in the paper around the outside the image, caused by the pressure exerted on the plate by the printing press. The pressure meant that the plates were literally flattened with use; prints show loss of fine detail after a small number had been printed. The best etchings and drypoints were printed in numbers of only about fifty. It was definitely not possible to produce prints in unlimited numbers. ETCHING is the earliest
form of intaglio. It was originally used to decorate metals, like
silver and armoury.
SOFT GROUND ETCHING is a variant.
A softer resin was used to cover the plate and then a thin sheet of paper
was laid over it. Using a soft pencil, the etcher drew the design
onto the paper, and where the pencil touched the paper, the resin adhered
to it. When completed, the etcher peeled the paper away from the
plate, lifting the resin which had adhered to the paper with it, thus exposing
the metal. The plate was subjected to acid like normal etching.
The resulting prints look similar to soft pencil drawings.
DRYPOINT was a way of adding to an etched
plate without the use of acid, the etcher using a needle directly onto
the copper to add further detail. Unlike engraving tools, which cut
the metal cleanly, the needle scraped the plate, leaving a residue of metal
at the side of the line, known as 'burr.' The burr held more ink
during printing, giving a blacker and richer effect to the print than with
normal etching. The burr wore away from the plate after very few
impressions had been taken.
AQUATINT is another
form of etching except the detail was worked in areas instead of lines.
A pure aquatint does not have any lines in it; any lines, such as the rigging
of a ship, were done by etching. The word is shortened from 'aqua-fortis
[strong water, meaning acid] tint,' tint referring to the tone in the print.
It has nothing to do with watercolours, although many made from about 1810
resemble watercolours. Most early aquatints were printed in monotone,
resembling pen and wash drawings. The method was to remove an area
of the resin where a tone was required, and over this area a resin powder,
known as 'ground' was laid and then subjected to acid, as with normal etching.
The acid bites in to the copper round the particles of resin. The
effect is an irregular shaped wire netting, tiny, almost circular white
dots surrounded by ink. Various grounds were used depending on the
effect required, and usually the best aquatints were made with the finest
grounds. A complicated method, usually requiring the skill of a specialist
engraver. Very few artists were able to make their own aquatints.
COPPER AND STEEL LINE
ENGRAVING. The engraver cut minute grooves in the plate with
variously shaped chisels which have handles shaped like mushrooms, the
rounded part resting in the palm of the hand, the stalk with the chisel
protruding from it, extending between the fingers. Again, the deeper
the groove, the more ink it will hold and the blacker will be the line
on the paper. Some of the finest detail is quite difficult to discern
on the plate. The best engravers produced wonderful tones and textures
with this technique.
Unlike wood-cuts, additions could easily be made
to plate simply by adding necessary detail. Alterations could be
made by hammering the plate from the back, smoothing the surface and re-engraving.
STIPPLE ENGRAVING. As the title suggests,
the prints are comprised of dots. There were two ways that this was
done. Generally, the method was a mixture of etching and engraving.
The engraver covered the plate with a resin, as etching, and then dotted
through the ground with a needle. Acid created the incisions in the
plate. Some stipples were engraved directly onto the plate, using
a curved instrument, called a 'roulette,' with tiny spikes on the convex
side, which was rocked over the plate to make the necessary incisions.
The roulette also created burr, as drypoint. Sometimes the roulette
and the resin systems were used on one plate.
MEZZOTINT. Instead
of working on a polished plate, the mezzotint engraver began by roughing
up the surface of the plate with a roulette, as stipple engraving, but
working more thoroughly. At this stage, the plate would make an entirely
black print. The engraver then put in the tones of light by smoothing
out the surface as required, using a 'scraper' to cut off the roughened
plate. The pure white areas have to be completely smooth. The
method was ideally suited to portraits. A good mezzotint engraver
could produce wonderful textures, especially clothing with distinctive
velvets and satins.
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INTAGLIO COLOUR PRINTING.
Aquatints, stipple engravings and mezzotints were sometimes printed
in colours from about 1780, but unlike modern printing, the prints were
made by putting the plate through the press only once. The method
was to apply the coloured inks to the plate as if painting a picture.
It was a lengthy and complicated procedure, far more so than using one
ink. Often three or four colours were used, the final colours
being added by hand. The best are completely colour printed, but
these are rare. The benefit is that in a person's face, for example,
the colour is flesh coloured. But if the print had been
made in black, and then hand coloured, the engraving would be black
with a wash over it, looking dull
and flat, and in need of a shave, which is not the best thing for a
female face, and lacking the vitality of colour printing.
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Span: earliest use was about 1790; flourished from 1820. Suited all subjects except maps. (see below) TRANSFER LITHOGRAPHS are a mixture of engraving
and lithography. Because the fine definition of engraving could not
be achieved with pure lithography, an engraved plate was first used and
a print made from it on a special transfer paper. While the ink was
still wet, the print was laid over the stone, transferring the ink onto
the stone. The stone was then used to print in the normal way.
Apart from the benefit of fine definition, it was easier and cheaper to
print from a stone. The prints are sometimes difficult to detect
from engravings. There will not be a plate mark. The system
had a particular advantage to map publishers. The metal plate could
be stored safely, additions made to it as required, and a single print
made to transfer to stone, from which a large number could be made without
any visible sign of wear to the metal plate.
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This article has previously been published in Mapforum.Com |
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