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A Short History
of Print Art
1500-1860
By Roger Baynton-Williams
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| There is a mystique surrounding the ways that old prints were
made, although the main printing techniques are quite simple
operations. These notes explain the methods, and, we hope,
help you to determine the way that any early print was made. Such
an understanding will give greater enjoyment of the artistry
that was required to make them.
With the notes, a date span is given which are the dates that the
method flourished. There are, of course, prints made by these
methods after the final date noted, when artists rather than commercial
printers extended the technique's lifespan. Also mentioned are
the principal uses of each method, and these are the subjects which
were most suited to the method.
These notes are deliberately brief, outlining the standard printing
methods used during the period, providing fundamental information. |
"Printing", for the purposes of this article, is the
transfer of ink from a prepared medium onto paper in a way that
an image can be reproduced repeatedly. These media were usually
flat, so there are three materials used in the making of the
plates and blocks that printed pictures:
wood, hard and fine grained
metal, usually copper, steel or zinc
stone, porous, like limestone.
There were three ways in which the materials were used. The wood
and metals required some sort of engraving, cutting into the material
in various ways to produce an image which could then be transferred onto
paper with a printing press. These methods are either 'relief'
or 'intaglio.' Printing from a stone
required a flat surface, without any incisions, and is 'lithography.' |
RELIEF
Usually applies to wood, known as 'WOOD-CUT' or 'WOOD
ENGRAVING.' Other materials were used, metal being
quite common; lino or any easily cut substance was used in the
late 19th century. The parts of the wood which provide
the image on the paper stand up, in relief. The parts which
show white on the paper have been cut away, using a variety of
small chisels. Hard, fine grained woods were used, fruit
and boxwood were preferred. Some of the best could produce
fine detail, but there is a limit to the amount of wood that
could be cut away to produce a fine line. It was
not possible to introduce tones, like it was with intaglio methods;
the same colour ink appears throughout the print. Generally,
early wood-cuts are rather crude. Wood-cuts were made from
a plank, cut with the grain. Wood engravings were made
from wood cut across the grain. Finer detail could be achieved
with wood engraving.
Span: 1450-1580. Strong revival in the late 19th century.
Used for all subjects.
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Woodcut
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BAXTER COLOUR PRINTS. George Baxter
is regarded as the first to develop a system of colour printing using
'separations,' which is one block or plate for each colour, as modern
printing. Baxter used wood blocks, one for each colour, plus
at least one metal plate for the fine detail. Unlike modern printing,
Baxter used as many as twenty-seven blocks to produce one print, although
the customary number was about fourteen. The reason for this
large number is that he could not tone a colour, so that if, say, he
needed a dark red and a light red, he needed two blocks. The
problem in printing with separations was to achieve the correct 'register,'
which means that each colour had to be printed in exactly the right
position. To look at the crude blocks, one wonders how this was
possible, or that Baxter could produce such fine quality work. The
irregular shaped blocks were clamped into a steel frame that had screw
threads to position the block precisely. The prints are distinctive;
the inks have a sheen as if varnished; they are usually small and finely
detailed, ideal for Victorian sentimental subjects.
The earliest Baxter prints were made in the 1830s, reaching a peak
as a result of the Great Exhibition in London in 1851.
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Baxter Print
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INTAGLIO
The opposite of relief. The metal plate was cut into, either
by using special tools or with the controlled use of acid. The
incisions eventually produce the detail in the print. Explaining
the last part first, when the engraved plate is ready to be printed,
the whole surface is covered with ink, carefully rubbed into
all the incisions, and then the surface is wiped perfectly clean,
leaving ink in the incisions. What creates various tones
on the paper is that the engraver varies the depths of the incisions,
the deeper the incision the more ink will be in it, and the blacker
will be the detail on the print. The finest detail will
show as nothing more than a finger print on the plate.
Assuming that the paper has not been trimmed, all intaglio prints will
have a 'plate mark,' an indentation in the paper around the outside the
image, caused by the pressure exerted on the plate by the printing press. The
pressure meant that the plates were literally flattened with use; prints
show loss of fine detail after a small number had been printed. The
best etchings and drypoints were printed in numbers of only about fifty. It
was definitely not possible to produce prints in unlimited numbers.
ETCHING is the earliest form of intaglio. It
was originally used to decorate metals, like silver and armoury.
The method is that the plate, usually copper, (zinc was used in the
late 19th century) was coated with a thin layer of black resin, which
is acid resistant. The etcher uses a fine needle to scratch through
the resin, just enough to expose the plate, where the lines are to
appear on the paper. When the detail is complete, the plate was
subjected to acid which bites into the exposed copper, creating the
incision. The longer the acid bites into the copper, the deeper
will be the incision and the blacker the line will be on the print,
so where the etcher has the required depth, more resin is applied to
the plate, preventing further bite, known as 'stopping out.' The
etcher continues in this way until the plate is completed. The
method is comparatively simple; etchings are usually the work of the
artist. Most other prints are the work of at least two people,
an artist and an engraver.
Span: the earliest etching is dated 1513. Flourished from 1550
to 1700. Revived in the middle of the 19th century.
Suited most subjects.
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Etching
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SOFT GROUND ETCHING is a variant. A softer resin was
used to cover the plate and then a thin sheet of paper was laid over
it. Using a soft pencil, the etcher drew the design onto the
paper, and where the pencil touched the paper, the resin adhered to
it. When completed, the etcher peeled the paper away from the
plate, lifting the resin which had adhered to the paper with it, thus
exposing the metal. The plate was subjected to acid like normal
etching. The resulting prints look similar to soft pencil drawings.
Span: 1780 to 1830.
Used for rural and domestic scenes.
DRYPOINT was a way of adding to an etched plate without the
use of acid, the etcher using a needle directly onto the copper to
add further detail. Unlike engraving tools, which cut the metal
cleanly, the needle scraped the plate, leaving a residue of metal at
the side of the line, known as 'burr.' The burr held more ink
during printing, giving a blacker and richer effect to the print than
with normal etching. The burr wore away from the plate after
very few impressions had been taken.
Span: as etching, but especially used in the late 19th century.
Mainly used for portraits and still life.
AQUATINT is another form of etching
except the detail was worked in areas instead of lines. A pure
aquatint does not have any lines in it; any lines, such as the rigging
of a ship, were done by etching. The word is shortened from 'aqua-fortis
[strong water, meaning acid] tint,' tint referring to the tone in the
print. It has nothing to do with watercolours, although many
made from about 1810 resemble watercolours. Most early aquatints
were printed in monotone, resembling pen and wash drawings. The
method was to remove an area of the resin where a tone was required,
and over this area a resin powder, known as 'ground' was laid and then
subjected to acid, as with normal etching. The acid bites in
to the copper round the particles of resin. The effect is an
irregular shaped wire netting, tiny, almost circular white dots surrounded
by ink. Various grounds were used depending on the effect required,
and usually the best aquatints were made with the finest grounds. A
complicated method, usually requiring the skill of a specialist engraver. Very
few artists were able to make their own aquatints.
Span; 1780 to 1830, short lived, partly because of the complication,
and partly because of the introduction of lithography, a much easier
printing method.
Mainly used for topography, shipping, military and sporting prints.


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Aquatint
Brighton Suspension Pier.
Anon.
Edward Fox.
C. & R. Sicklemore.
C.1820.
These three prints were made from the same plate. The engraved detail is the same in all three, but the difference is in the way they were printed and finished.
a. is shown in the state directly after printing, without any hand finishing. It was printed in blue and brown.
b. was also printed in two colours, and then hand finished. The added colour is mainly to the left side of the picture, to the buildings, the foreground and the people. To the right, the only additional colour is to the boats and the flag. The difference in the blue ink used is noticeable, much richer in b.
c. was printed entirely in black; all the colour was added by hand. The difference can best be seen in the sky and the sea, a dull effect compared to the brilliance of b. The picture becomes a dark stormy day.
In terms of value, b. is worth about twice c. a. is more of the novelty than a quality item, valued somewhere between the other two.
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COPPER AND STEEL LINE ENGRAVING. The
engraver cut minute grooves in the plate with variously shaped chisels
which have handles shaped like mushrooms, the rounded part resting
in the palm of the hand, the stalk with the chisel protruding from
it, extending between the fingers. Again, the deeper the groove,
the more ink it will hold and the blacker will be the line on the paper. Some
of the finest detail is quite difficult to discern on the plate. The
best engravers produced wonderful tones and textures with this technique.
Steel was introduced later, and, being much harder than copper, could
produce finer detail. Also, steel plates lasted longer. During
the 1830s, engraving machines were used which ensured parallel lines,
useful for engraving skies.
Line engraving and etching can produce prints which are similar in
appearance, both using lines to create the image. Lines in etching
are much more irregular, without being straight, unless they are essential
to the picture.
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Engraving
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Unlike wood-cuts, additions could easily be made to plate simply by
adding necessary detail. Alterations could be made by hammering
the plate from the back, smoothing the surface and re-engraving.
Span: copper 1550 to 1830.
Steel 1820 to 1860.
Used for all subjects. Most early maps are copper engravings.
STIPPLE ENGRAVING. As the title suggests, the prints
are comprised of dots. There were two ways that this was done. Generally,
the method was a mixture of etching and engraving. The engraver
covered the plate with a resin, as etching, and then dotted through
the ground with a needle. Acid created the incisions in the plate. Some
stipples were engraved directly onto the plate, using a curved instrument,
called a 'roulette,' with tiny spikes on the convex side, which was
rocked over the plate to make the necessary incisions. The roulette
also created burr, as drypoint. Sometimes the roulette and the
resin systems were used on one plate.
Span: known to have been used in the 16th century. Flourished
from 1780 to 1830.
Ideal for portraits and domestic scenes, especially when printed in
colours. (See below for stipple illustrations)
MEZZOTINT. Instead of working on a
polished plate, the mezzotint engraver began by roughing up the surface
of the plate with a roulette, as stipple engraving, but working more
thoroughly. At this stage, the plate would make an entirely black
print. The engraver then put in the tones of light by smoothing
out the surface as required, using a 'scraper' to cut off the roughened
plate. The pure white areas have to be completely smooth. The
method was ideally suited to portraits. A good mezzotint engraver
could produce wonderful textures, especially clothing with distinctive
velvets and satins.
Span: 1650 to 1830.
Best for portraits, but used for most subjects.
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Mezzotint
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PRINTING FROM INTAGLIO PLATES
With all the processes, it was necessary to ink the plate immediately
prior to printing. This, as well, was an art. Printers
made their own inks, thick, oily substances. The ink was
rubbed into the plate with a 'dauber,' working in circular movements
to ensure that ink was forced into all the engraving. Then
the surface of the plate is wiped completely free of any excess
ink, leaving ink in the incisions. The plate was then ready
for the printing press. The paper was slightly moistened
to make it more receptive to ink. Great pressure was required
to force the ink onto the paper, indicated by the depth of the
plate mark. The early presses had flat beds with the press
coming down vertically; later presses used rollers, like a domestic
mangle. When the print had been made, the paper was laid
between cloth to dry, the prints stacked up and put under light
pressure to keep them flat. The printer then had to re-ink
the plate all over again before another print was made, an operation
which averaged twenty minutes, depending on the size and detail
of the print.
INTAGLIO COLOUR PRINTING. Aquatints,
stipple engravings and mezzotints were sometimes printed in colours
from about 1780, but unlike modern printing, the prints were made by
putting the plate through the press only once. The method was
to apply the coloured inks to the plate as if painting a picture. It
was a lengthy and complicated procedure, far more so than using one
ink. Often three or four colours were used, the final colours
being added by hand. The best are completely colour printed,
but these are rare. The benefit is that in a person's face, for
example, the colour is flesh coloured. But if the print
had been made in black, and then hand coloured, the engraving would
be black with a wash over it, looking dull and flat, and in need
of a shave, which is not the best thing for a female face, and lacking
the vitality of colour printing.
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LITHOGRAPHY
A perfectly flat, fine grained, porous stone was used. The
lithographer drew the image onto the stone with black wax, like
a crayon. Once the image was complete, the stone was thoroughly
moistened. The wax repels the water, the stone absorbs
it. Then an ink roller is run over the surface and the
reverse happens; the water repels the oily ink and the wax accepts
it. Once the whole surface is inked, the block is ready
for the press. Obviously, it is a much more simple method
than intaglio. Though the method was discovered at the
end of the 19th century, it was not until about 1830 that lithographs
appeared in any number. Because of the comparative simplicity,
artists and printers quickly turned to lithography, superseding
the expensive and laborious intaglio methods. Like etching,
artists could produce their own prints, and because the resulting
prints have a similar appearance to a pencil drawing, the method
suited them. From about 1840, printers began to use an
extra stone to add tone colour to the print, blue, yellow or
brown being commonly used. These are known as 'tinted lithographs,'
which does not mean they are fully coloured.
Span: earliest use was about 1790; flourished from 1820.
Suited all subjects except maps. (see below)
TRANSFER LITHOGRAPHS are a mixture of engraving and lithography. Because
the fine definition of engraving could not be achieved with pure lithography,
an engraved plate was first used and a print made from it on a special
transfer paper. While the ink was still wet, the print was laid
over the stone, transferring the ink onto the stone. The stone
was then used to print in the normal way. Apart from the benefit
of fine definition, it was easier and cheaper to print from a stone. The
prints are sometimes difficult to detect from engravings. There
will not be a plate mark. The system had a particular advantage
to map publishers. The metal plate could be stored safely, additions
made to it as required, and a single print made to transfer to stone,
from which a large number could be made without any visible sign of
wear to the metal plate.
Used from about 1860. |
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Our Printing Exhibition has been exhibited throughout
the United Kingdom. All illustrations featured here are taken
from the exhibits.
This article has previously been published in Mapforum.Com
and has been expanded and printed as
THE ART
OF THE PRINTMAKER
1500-1860
Available from us
or even
The National Gallery
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